Upon walking through the entrance of Petra, I was approached by a young man asking if I would like to ride a camel, horse, you name it. I knew I would be bombarded with offers. I insisted I didn’t want a guide and that I would be fine exploring on my own.
I saw him walk ahead of me to a man on a horse and thought oh great, now he’s going to tell him I’m going on the back trails alone. which he did. They approached me. We kept going back and forth, then the man said “I will show you around for free, but I cannot let you wander Petra alone. The routes are complicated, and it is far too dangerous for you to go alone.” I told him I wouldn’t allow him to take me for free, so we agreed on a price. He noticed how agitated I was and told me if I don’t have an amazing time, then I don’t have to pay him. I didn’t care. I just wanted to hike.
My guide Majed, showed me parts of Petra I never even knew existed. Throughout the trek this short chat took place many times:
“Mubsoota?” “Are you happy?”
Yes.
“meeyeh fl meeyeh?” [100/100?]
Meeyeh fl meeyeh.
We trekked uphill to his friend’s Bedouin tent where we were given tea and shrak. (A thin Bedouin bread) then made our way down to more historic spots. He was impressed with my Arabic considering I’m American. I told him to never underestimate the power of preservation. We were approaching a drop when he told me to close my eyes. Not sketchy at all. I know. I did it anyways. He guided me a few steps forward and told me to open my eyes.
Al-Khazneh The Treasury appeared below me. Despite seeing it multiple times growing up, it still took my breath away. And from above, it was simply magnificent. It gave me a sense of empowerment.
After admiring the Treasury, we sat down in the shade to catch our breath (he was totally fine; it was me who needed a break). It wasn’t hot. It was hell. Why didn’t I wear shorts? I thought to myself. Oh right, to be respectful I suppose. There are some tourist destinations where one should consider local clothing customs out of respect.
We made our way to the Monastery; another monumental building in Petra. The stairs were monumental as well… all 850 of them. The sunset that followed was well worth the hike up. There were times of constant chatter, and times where the only sounds heard were crumbling rocks under our boots along with heavy breathing. We met up with a friend of his who is also a Bedouin. His dark complexion, shiny curls, jewelry, and thick accent made him look like he just stepped off a movie set. Turns out he’s obsessed with Bob Marley, which I found hilarious, but I love Bob Marley myself, so that conversation took off. He rents out his cave to foreigners and told me about his tripadvisor reviews. "The people that stay in my cave leave good reviews, so I guess they like me." I didn’t believe him, so he gave me his account name to look up later… he wasn’t kidding! As we were eating our sandwiches, I realized that I was sitting with a small group of Bedouin men. I thought to myself, my family is never going to believe me. For them, it’s uncharted territory.
Our trek led us to Petra By Night which is an event where several candles are set out in front of the Treasury and traditional music is played. The candlelight amplified the depth of the structure. Everyone spoke quietly, as every sound was amplified. I felt like I was in a movie. Stars were scattered in the night sky, which had a tint of purple to it. After Petra By Night, we walked through the enclosed pathway which was also lit with candles. We hiked around 30 kilometers throughout the day. I arrived in the early morning and left late at night. It was such a long day. I was ready to shower and pass out on my bed. I don’t think I can quite put that day’s experience into words. I guess I tried, and I didn’t mention everything, but it was absolutely unbelievable.
After reaching the end of the pathway, I insisted on parting ways and said that I would be okay with finding a ride. I put double the amount we agreed on in our handshake and started to walk away. He shouted in the distance:
“Tab basatee?” “But did you have fun?”
I turned back around and shouted back:
Meeyeh fl meeyeh!